The Select Journal • Luxury • Investment Guide

Is a Luxury Watch Actually a Good Investment? The Data

The honest answer: a narrow slice of references has been extraordinary, most luxury watches behave like depreciating consumer goods, and almost no one runs the math after insurance, servicing and dealer spread.

Four Omega Seamaster Professional 300M watches arranged on a light surface
Reference-level performance matters more than brand mythology: even strong names can produce very different resale outcomes by model, metal and market cycle.
30 references in the price-history universe
0.5-2% annual insurance range to model
15-30% dealer spread hurdle on resale

Data status: the 30-reference universe and cost framework are locked below; exact annual price series should be verified against WatchCharts, Chrono24 sold-price aggregates or Subdial before final return figures are published.

The short answer (and why it’s more nuanced than “yes”)

Are luxury watches a good investment? Sometimes—but only if the reference clears three tests at once: genuine demand that is stronger than supply, a resale market deep enough to sell quickly, and enough gross appreciation to survive the ownership costs most appreciation stories ignore.

The best-known steel sports watches from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet can pass those tests over a long period. The ordinary case is very different. Many excellent watches from the same brands, and many enthusiast favorites from Omega and Tudor, look far less compelling once inflation, service bills, insurance premiums and dealer buy/sell spreads are applied.

Verdict: buy a watch because you want to own and wear it. Treat appreciation as an underwriting bonus, not the base case. If the watch cannot absorb roughly 20-40% in total friction over a long holding period, it is not an investment-grade purchase.

Methodology: what we measured and where the data comes from

This guide is built around a fixed 30-reference sample across Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Omega and Tudor. For each reference, the return model should compare a 2016 entry price with annual market prices through 2026, then subtract estimated ownership friction.

Market-price inputs

  • WatchCharts reference-level and index data where available.
  • Chrono24 sold-price or ChronoPulse aggregates for market trend cross-checking.
  • Subdial market data for top traded references and liquidity context.

Ownership-cost inputs

  • Insurance: specialty providers such as Hodinkee Insurance publish example annual costs, while Jewelers Mutual states watch-insurance rates begin at roughly 1-2% annually.
  • Servicing: model a full service every 5-10 years, generally $400-$1,200+ depending on brand, complications and parts.
  • Dealer spread: model a 15-30% exit haircut unless the seller has the skill and risk tolerance to sell privately.

Returns should be shown three ways: nominal return, inflation-adjusted return, and net return after insurance, servicing and spread. The third number is the only one that resembles the owner’s actual outcome.

The references that actually appreciated (with 10-year charts)

The appreciation story is real—but concentrated. Steel sports references with persistent waitlists and cultural liquidity are the cohort most likely to show returns beyond inflation. In this sample, the likely outperformers are the Daytona 116500LN, Nautilus 5711/1A, Aquanaut 5167A and 5164A, Royal Oak 15202ST, selected Royal Oak three-hand references and limited references such as the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy.

The key analytical point is that the winners are not “luxury watches” broadly. They are specific references with deep buyer pools, low supply relative to demand, and a market price that dealers can underwrite quickly.

The references that didn’t (honest downside cases)

Plenty of good watches do not make good investments. The weaker cohort tends to include precious-metal dress watches bought near retail, less-hyped steel sports watches, larger production mainstream references and pieces that require a dealer discount to move quickly.

A flat nominal price over ten years is not flat in real life. After inflation, servicing and the dealer spread, it can be a meaningful loss. That is why a watch can be “worth what you paid” and still have been a poor investment.

30-reference dataset: verification matrix

This table fixes the research universe. The final model should replace the verification notes with annual 2016-2026 prices, nominal return, inflation-adjusted return and net return after costs.

Luxury watch investment dataset requiring annual price verification
Brand Reference Segment Current working cohort Verification flag
RolexDaytona 116500LNSteel chronographAppreciatedLock annual 2016-2026 prices
RolexSubmariner Date 116610LN / 126610LNSteel diverAppreciated / moderateLock annual 2016-2026 prices
RolexGMT-Master II 116710BLNRSteel GMTAppreciatedLock annual 2016-2026 prices
RolexGMT-Master II 126710BLROSteel GMTAppreciatedUse predecessor bridge for 10-year context
RolexExplorer 214270Steel field watchModest appreciationLock annual 2016-2026 prices
RolexDatejust 41 126334Steel dress/sportFlat to modestLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeNautilus 5711/1ASteel integrated sportsStrong appreciationLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeAquanaut 5167ASteel sportsStrong appreciationLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeCalatrava 5196Precious-metal dressFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeAnnual Calendar 5396Complicated dressFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeAquanaut Travel Time 5164ASteel travel sportsAppreciatedLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Patek PhilippeTwenty~4 4910/10ASteel jewelry/dressFlat/downLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak 15202STSteel ultra-thin sportsStrong appreciationLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak 15400STSteel integrated sportsAppreciatedLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak 15500STSteel integrated sportsAppreciated with cycle riskBridge predecessor for 10-year context
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak Offshore Diver 15710STSteel sport diverFlat/modestLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak Chronograph 26331STSteel integrated chronographAppreciated/moderateLock annual 2016-2026 prices
Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak 15450ORPrecious-metal integratedFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
OmegaSpeedmaster Professional MoonwatchSteel chronographFlat to modestLock annual 2016-2026 prices
OmegaSeamaster Diver 300MSteel diverFlat/down after costsBridge prior generation for 10-year context
OmegaAqua Terra 150MSteel sport/dressFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
OmegaGlobemaster Master ChronometerSteel dress/sportFlat/downLock annual 2016-2026 prices
OmegaSpeedmaster Silver Snoopy AwardLimited steel chronographStrong appreciationLock annual 2016-2026 prices
OmegaPlanet Ocean 600MSteel diverFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
TudorBlack Bay Fifty-Eight 79030NSteel diverFlat/modestBridge predecessor for 10-year context
TudorBlack Bay GMT 79830RBSteel GMTFlat/modestBridge predecessor context
TudorPelagos 25600TNTitanium diverFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
TudorHeritage Chrono 70330NSteel chronographFlat/modestLock annual 2016-2026 prices
TudorBlack Bay Bronze 79250BMBronze diverFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices
TudorBlack Bay 41 79230NSteel diverFlat/down after costsLock annual 2016-2026 prices

The hidden costs: insurance, servicing, dealer spread

The cleanest watch-investing analysis starts with a simple hurdle rate. A buyer needs enough appreciation to cover the costs below before they can claim an actual investment gain.

InsuranceModel 0.5-1.5% of value per year for many specialty policies, with some providers quoting from about 1-2% depending on watch and location.
ServicingModel one service every 5-10 years. A mainstream luxury full service can be $400-$1,200+, and complications raise the bill.
Dealer spreadModel 15-30% between what a dealer pays and what the dealer asks. This is the biggest silent drag for short holding periods.

Example: if a watch rises 40% over ten years but you paid 10% cumulatively in insurance, one service bill, and then accept a 20% dealer haircut on exit, the owner’s real return can be modest or negative before inflation.

How this compares to other alternative assets

Watches have one advantage many alternatives lack: the owner can enjoy the asset. They also have several disadvantages: concentrated brand risk, fashion-cycle risk, authenticity risk, theft risk, maintenance cost and transaction costs that are far higher than public-market securities.

Compared with art, wine, whisky or classic cars, the best watch references are more portable and often more liquid. Compared with equities or broad index funds, they are less diversified, less transparent and more expensive to transact. That makes watches closer to a collectible with optional investment characteristics than a core investment allocation.

Our framework for buying with resale in mind

  1. Start with real scarcity. Real waitlists, discontinued references and constrained production matter. Marketing scarcity is not enough.
  2. Prefer liquid steel sports watches over niche precious-metal references. Precious metal can be wonderful to own, but resale liquidity is often thinner.
  3. Buy complete sets. Box, papers, service records and clean provenance reduce friction when selling.
  4. Underwrite the exit before the purchase. Ask what a reputable dealer would pay today, not what listings ask.
  5. Budget ownership friction upfront. If the investment case only works before insurance, service and spread, it does not work.
  6. Buy the watch you actually want. Appreciation is a possible bonus; enjoyment is the only guaranteed return.